What is rayon fabric and what is it’s rightful place in today’s sustainable fashion climate? There are so many brands and fabric stores that sell garments and materials made out of rayon as eco-friendly alternatives to polyester. But is there any truth behind this kind of marketing?
What is Rayon?
Rayon is a versatile, semi-synthetic fabric made from regenerated cellulose, a natural polymer found in plant cells. This material is extracted from wood pulp, primarily from fast-growing trees like eucalyptus, pine, or bamboo.
The production process of rayon involves dissolving the cellulose in chemicals, forming a viscous solution, and then extruding it through a spinneret to create fibers. These fibers are then spun into yarn and woven or knitted into the soft, gorgeously drapey fabric we know as rayon.
The concept of this “artificial silk” or rayon fiber can be traced back to 1664, when English scientist Robert Hooke said it might be possible to spin artificial filaments from a cellulosic substance resembling the secretion of silkworms.
But it wasn’t until 1884 in France, that Count Hilaire de Chardonnet unveiled the first practical commercial production of rayon fiber.
The Different Types of Rayon
There are various types of rayon, each with its own unique characteristics and production methods.
Viscose Rayon
Viscose rayon, also known as regular rayon, is the most common type of rayon fabric. It is produced by dissolving cellulose in a sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide solution, and then extruding the resulting solution through a spinneret.
Viscose rayon is soft and breathable, and a great moisture absorber.
Modal Rayon
Modal rayon is a type of rayon that undergoes a slightly different production process, resulting in a fabric that is stronger, more durable, and less prone to shrinkage than viscose rayon.
Modal is often made from beech trees and features a smoother, silkier texture. It also has excellent moisture-wicking properties, making it a popular choice for activewear and undergarments.
Lyocell and Tencel
Lyocell is another variant of rayon that is produced using a more environmentally friendly process. Unlike viscose and modal, Lyocell is manufactured using a closed-loop system that recovers and reuses solvents, significantly reducing waste and emissions.
Tencel is simply a brand name for Lyocell specifically produced by the Austrian company Lenzing AG. It is mostly made from sustainably sourced eucalyptus trees and is known for its smoothness, breathability, and biodegradability.
Is Rayon Stretchy?
Rayon itself is not inherently stretchy. But it is known for its excellent drape and fluidity, which can give garments a comfortable and flowing fit.
To add stretch to rayon fabric, it is often blended with other fibers like spandex, elastane, or lycra, which provide elasticity and enhance the fabric’s ability to stretch and recover.
Is Rayon Fabric Sustainable?
Rayon fabric is sustainable in certain cases. It’s true that it is made from regenerated cellulose, a natural polymer found in plant cells.
However, the production process involves dissolving the cellulose in chemicals and then extruding it through a spinneret to create fibers.
So is rayon synthetic or natural, is it biodegradable and is it eco-friendly?
Rayon is classified as semi-synthetic rather than entirely natural.
As a cellulosic fiber, it decomposes more quickly than synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon. This property positions rayon as a more environmentally friendly option when it comes to disposal.
The sustainability of rayon depends on several factors, such as the raw material source, production process, and disposal methods.
To provide a balanced perspective, here are the positive and negative aspects of rayon’s sustainability –
Pros:
- Biodegradability: Rayon, being a cellulosic fiber, is biodegradable and decomposes more quickly than synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon. This property makes rayon a comparably more environmentally friendly option when it comes to disposal.
- Renewable raw materials: Rayon is made from wood pulp, which comes from renewable sources like trees and bamboo. If these raw materials are harvested responsibly and sustainably, rayon’s environmental impact can be minimized.
- Low energy consumption: The production of rayon requires less energy compared to fully synthetic fibers like polyester, acrylic and nylon, which are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels.
Cons:
- Deforestation: The production of rayon can contribute to deforestation, especially when the wood pulp is sourced from unsustainable logging practices.
- Chemical usage: The production process for viscose and modal rayon involves the use of hazardous chemicals, such as carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide, which can pollute the environment and pose risks to workers’ health.
- Water consumption: Rayon manufacturing requires large amounts of water as compared to polyester or linen.
- Greenwashing: Some rayon products are marketed as eco-friendly or sustainable, even when they are not. This practice, known as greenwashing, can mislead consumers and hinder the adoption of truly sustainable alternatives.
How to Choose Sustainable Rayon
Here are some tips to help you select sustainable rayon:
- Look for certified materials: Choose rayon fabrics that are made from certified sustainable sources, such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) certified wood pulp. These certifications ensure that the raw materials are sourced and harvested responsibly and sustainably.
- Opt for eco-friendly production methods: When possible, select rayon fabrics like Lyocell or Tencel, which are produced using more environmentally friendly processes. These fabrics also tend to be more durable and of higher quality than regular viscose rayon.
- Research brands and manufacturers: Invest time in researching brands and manufacturers that prioritize sustainability and ethical practices. Look for companies that transparently share information about their sourcing, production methods, and commitment to reducing their environmental impact.
- Recycle and repurpose: Extend the life of your rayon garments by taking good care of them, repurposing them, or recycling them when they reach the end of their lifecycle. This helps reduce waste and the demand for new materials.
Why is Rayon Bad?
The actual sustainability of rayon is not a black and white issue. On the one hand, rayon is made from renewable resources and is biodegradable.
On the other hand, the production process for some types of rayon, like viscose and modal, involves the use of hazardous chemicals like carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide, which can pollute water and air, harm workers’ health, and pose risks to surrounding communities.
Rayon production can contribute to deforestation when the wood pulp is sourced from unsustainable logging practices, leading to habitat loss and carbon emissions.
On top of all this, the disposal of rayon fabrics may introduce chemicals from the production process into the environment.
Sustainable rayon alternatives like Lyocell and Tencel which are produced using closed-loop systems that recover and reuse solvents, reducing waste and emissions, can help mitigate these negative effects.
These environmentally-friendly alternatives are made from sustainably sourced trees and offer more environmentally responsible choices to consumers like you and me.
In summary, rayon is a semi-synthetic, biodegradable fabric. Its eco-friendliness depends on the production methods, raw material sourcing, and type of rayon.
How to Care for Rayon Fabric?
To care for rayon fabric, strictly follow the specific care instructions on the garment label, as rayon can be delicate and prone to shrinkage.
Generally, hand-washing in cold water with a mild detergent and laying the item flat to dry is the safest method to maintain this fabric’s quality and prevent damage. That’s provided the manufacturer’s label says it can be washed.
If ironing is required, remember to use low heat and turn the garment inside out to avoid direct contact with the fabric’s surface.
To prevent it from burning, you can also get fabric guards that can be fitted directly onto the iron as well as flat fabric shields that can be placed on top of the material before pressing it.
What are Some Sustainable Alternatives to Rayon?
Some sustainable alternatives to rayon include Lyocell, Tencel, silk, linen and organic cotton. Lyocell and Tencel are both made from sustainably sourced regenerated cellulose, but use closed-loop production processes that recycle and reuse solvents, unlike regular rayon.
Organic cotton is another eco-friendly option, produced without harmful pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, and adheres to strict environmental and social standards.
Choosing sustainable alternatives helps support environmentally responsible practices in the textile industry and reduces the overall ecological footprint of clothing and other textile products.
What is Rayon Challis?
Rayon challis (pronounced “shălē”) is a lightweight, soft, and drapeable fabric made from rayon fibers. The term “challis” refers to the way the the threads are woven and the final finish, rather than the material itself.
It is characterized by its smooth, slightly lustrous surface and fluid drape, making it a popular choice for garments such as evening gowns, circle skirts, blouses, scarves and baby doll dresses.
When it comes to sewing, rayon challis is slightly challenging to work with due to its fluidity and slippery texture. So be wary of choosing it for a project if you are a beginner.
Rayon challis shares the same environmental concerns as other types of rayon.
What is Cotton Rayon & is Rayon Better Than Cotton?
Cotton rayon is a blended fabric made by combining natural cotton fibers with semi-synthetic rayon fibers. This blend offers the best of both materials, resulting in a comfortable, breathable, and durable fabric with excellent drape and softness.
Rayon, derived from regenerated cellulose, provides a silk-like feel, while cotton adds strength and breathability to the blend. It all comes down to personal preferences and intended use.
With regards to environmental concerns, even cotton that is not organically sourced uses a ton of chemicals from seed to fabric stage. We’re talking about everything from dangerous pesticides to ammonia to heavy metal-based dyes to flame retardants to petroleum scours, and more.
So no one can claim that regular cotton is better than rayon or vice versa.
What is Bamboo Rayon Fabric?
Bamboo is a fast-growing, renewable resource that requires less water and pesticides than many other plants used in textile production. In fact, it grows from shoot to a towering adult plant in as less as 2 short months! So it has gained popularity as a sustainable alternative to traditional wood sources in rayon production.
To create this semi-synthetic bamboo rayon fabric (also known as bamboo viscose), the cellulose is extracted from the bamboo plants through a chemical process similar to that used in traditional viscose rayon production.
The extracted cellulose is dissolved in a chemical solution, which is then pushed through a spinneret to form fibers. These are then spun into yarn and woven or knitted into fabric.
Bamboo rayon fabric is known for its exceptional softness and smooth texture. It is breathable and has moisture-wicking properties, which help regulate body temperature, and keep the wearer cool and dry.
It also has natural antibacterial properties to aid in reducing odor and maintaining freshness.
However, the sustainability of bamboo rayon fabric is not without controversy since its production process is similar to that of traditional viscose rayon. This naturally puts a big question mark over its “eco-friendly” claims.
If you can afford it, look for bamboo fabrics produced using more environmentally friendly processes, like Lyocell or closed-loop systems, which minimize waste and chemical pollution.
Additionally, bamboo products certified by organizations like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) ensures that the raw materials are sourced responsibly and sustainably.
In Conclusion
The sustainability of rayon fabric is a multifaceted issue that depends on various factors, such as the source of raw materials, production methods, and disposal practices.
While rayon has some eco-friendly properties, such as biodegradability and its use of renewable raw materials, it also has downsides, like the potential for deforestation and chemical pollution.
By making informed choices and opting for certified, eco-friendly rayon products, you can contribute to the adoption of more sustainable practices within the fashion and textile industry.
As always, it’s essential to stay informed, be critical of greenwashing, and support brands that genuinely prioritize sustainability and ethical practices.
